By Sohla El-Waylly, The New York Times My first year creating recipes for Thanksgiving season, I was practically giddy at the thought of coming up with dishes that would be shared at countless tables. (And yes, it’s a season, especially if, like me, you’ve spent years at food magazines and test kitchens, where holiday planning starts while it’s still beach weather.) “You’ll get over it,” said my then-supervisor, a Thanksgiving veteran. In the years since, I’ve roasted whole turkeys in forests of herbs, spatchcocked turkeys blasted with high heat until their skin crackles, and broken down birds to sear and baste with butter until every part is the ideal temperature.