By Brigid Ransome Washington, The New York Times Most condiments understand their role: Uplift but never upstage. But in Trinidad and Tobago, the show can’t go on without chow chow, a citrine-colored, spice-laced and veggie-packed relish. With mustard at its core, chow chow combines fruit, vegetables and aromatics — carrots, bell peppers, bitter melon, pineapple, mangoes, papaya, ginger, cloves, onions and garlic — into an assertive yet nuanced topping for baked ham.