If, as a double-chinned, buffet-loving nine-year-old, I had suddenly chocked on a King Size Nutrageous, and seen a glimpse of my own personal fat kid heaven, last night's Second Annual Village Voice Choice Eats would have been it. A half hour before the doors opened, the line of ticket-holders dreaming about Sara Jenkins' porchetta sandwich in close proximity to Salumeria Rosi's mortadella and Christina Tosi's compost cookie snaked around the block.