Rich and creamy pasta ai quattro formaggi — or pasta with four cheeses — is the Italian equivalent of American mac and cheese. The cheeses can vary, though funky Gorgonzola and nutty Parmesan are typical. In this recipe from “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we use that classic combination, along with creamy mascarpone and fontina, an Italian semi-soft cow’s milk cheese that melts well.