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Chef Ken Wan grew up behind the counter of a Chinese restaurant in a Boston suburb. He watched his parents serve General Tso’s chicken and beef and broccoli to the masses who came through the doors of New China Garden in West Roxbury, Mass. Wan understands the appeal of those dishes to American eaters.

What do barbecue breakfast burritos, hot stone pho, and croissants all have in common? Each of these dishes has gone viral in Denver in the last year. At Smok, a barbecue restaurant in The Source Hotel & Market Hall, an enormous breakfast burrito featuring chorizo, brisket, tater tots, eggs, queso and green chile unexpectedly took Denver by storm in January when Dallas-based influencer Blondes Who Eat posted about it. “I mean, it is so incredible,” Kristi Keith said as she ate the burrito — terming it a “hunk of love” — in a video posted on the TikTok account, which has 399,200 followers.