The ninth hole of the Ailsa course at Turnberry is one of golf’s glittering jewels, a cliffside par 3 with a tee shot over crashing waves toward a lighthouse built on the remains of a 13th century castle. The strip of Scottish coastline is so pretty, you can almost fathom why Donald Trump is standing here, an ocean away from the nearest gettable voter, at the worst possible time. Back home, his party is mulling revolt.