From the first bite, my wife JingJing pronounces her comforting bowl of noodles hen didao authentic. “You don’t often see this in restaurants because it’s so simple and homey. If I was sick and staying home, this is what my mom would make,’’ she says. I’ve eaten her mother’s delicious cooking in China’s Hebei province, and this dish indeed has the fengwei, local flavor, going for it.