Monterey enjoys a lot of California’s firsts: its first newspaper, its first government building, its first theater and its first public school. Old Fisherman’s Wharf can now claim 103 years in existence, and there’s no shortage of sea lions to ogle, whales to watch and chowder samples to taste. The futuristic (and stylish) tea-and-coffee shop enjoys a great harborside deck, state-of-the-art $50,000 Alpha Dominche steeping chambers for the tea and an Italian masterpiece of a $20,000 La Marzocco machine for the Monterey joe. A short walk down the Coastal Recreation Trail skirts the same side of the harbor Water +Leaves overlooks, and delivers visitors to the best-kept historical — and scenic — secret by the bay: 25.3-acre Lower Presidio Park, part of the Defense Language Institute and a superlative place for stunning views, wide lawns and a museum. Illuminating State Park-guided tours of Old Monterey’s most interesting old buildings happen summer Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at 10:30 a.m., 12:30 and 2 p.m., and can include a look at the last whalebone sidewalk west of Mississippi. The Pacific House is where the tours start, near the same spot Commodore John Drake Sloat raised the American flag in 1846 and the oldest government building in California, the Custom House, a.k.a.

 

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