share: digg facebook twitter [...] was born his quixotic ambition to make mozzarella from the milk of the original buffalo, in a nation with scanty refrigeration and little taste for European-style cheese. Mozzillo, a clean-cut 28 year old, is not the sort of person you would imagine standing on the edge of a scraggly field, miles from the possibility of refrigeration, his imagination swollen with a singular vision: a cheese factory. Yet seven years after he first came to India for a friend's wedding, he has a factory packed with high-end cheese making machines, carted from Italy to the north Indian state of Haryana. Milk trucks, huge orange Tata semis festooned with flags, barrel down narrow roads shaded by great eucalyptus trees. "The probable origin of the Italian buffalo is the Indian buffalo, even though for many centuries the Italian buffalo has followed a path that is completely different and isolated from the other Indian breeds," said Leopoldo Iannuzzi, director of the Institute of Animal Production Systems in Mediterranean Environments in Naples. At one of the farms supplying Mozzillo, a Sikh worker covered his turban with a cap and grabbed the buffalo's pendulous udder with his fist, sending a frothy stream of buffalo milk into a sterilized aluminum can. Women and children gather around a barrel at the front of the shop, taking fresh milk home in plastic bags and metal cups. [...] Mozzillo fronted the owner money to buy a bulk milk cooler, there was no refrigeration. Each month, it churns out 10 tons of ricotta, mascarpone, scamorza, pizza cheese, Indian paneer, fresh cream and, of course, fresh buffalo mozzarella — which wholesales for about a quarter of the price of Italian imports — under the Impero and Hilly Fresh brands. [...] they cooked the cheese and because mozzarella cheese gives out strings it started giving out strings into the vegetables. Milk yield and quality are optimized for the production of fresh mozzarella, according to a mathematical index that calibrates protein and fat content.

 

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