Cauliflower can be bland and boring if not treated correctly, but browning the vegetable in the oven coaxes out deep, almost meaty flavors that transform it into a satisfying vegetarian main. In this recipe from “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we cut thick cauliflower steaks from the center section of the whole head, then brush them with olive oil on both sides and season with salt and pepper before cooking them in a scorching hot oven. The steaks are roasted until tender throughout and browned on the bottom, anchoring the dish with a crispy edge and deep umami.