Butter is so important in Poland that the government keeps a stockpile of it in the country’s strategic reserves. Pastry chef Arnaud Delmontel rolls out dough for croissants and pain au chocolat that later emerge golden and fragrant from the oven in his Paris patisserie.The price for the butter so essential to the pastries has shot up in recent months, by 25% since September alone, Delmontel says.

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