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Bookmark or Share- What are the steps in the PBUS method of belaying?The other thing is that while the PBUS method works really well for sport or indoor climbing when the climber is above at a steep angle, it gets harder and hard to keep the brake hand behind the braking plane when the angle is less steep or if you are belaying someone from below you.
- Correct and incorrect slip-slap-slide belay techniqueThis blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. Here is a video demonstrating PBUS. Slip-slap-slide is illustrated on p. 161 of Freedom of the Hills, 8th ed. I use PBUS, and as the blog discusses, it's becoming almost universal now to teach beginners PBUS. 95% of the people I climb with ...
- What to teach someone who wants to start lead climbing?Entire books and multi-day training classes are built around thus topic. Climbers spend months either following a more experienced leader, or taking risks and learning stuff the hard way.
- safety - How unsafe is this belay technique really? - The Great ...Sure, the brake-under-slide (or PBUS) is the most redundant and reliable belay, but when you're standing on the 6th pitch of a rotten dolomite face trying to pull 70m of rope while dealing with rope drag so bad you can't tell if you're only taking up the slack or up-hauling your second, then you really don't care about your handwork.
- safety - Is there any evidence that attaching a biner to both seat and ...The other reason to clip to both loops, is that it will make it much harder to belay in the PBUS style, as a belay device such as an ATC will be oriented horizontally instead of vertically. Share Improve this answer
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