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Bookmark or Share- Bluing / Blackening of steel - Bladesmith's Forum BoardYou're going to be dealing with a pot of heated salt solution in the 400 to 600 degree range, well over 200 celsius. One splash and you have 3rd degree burns. So, face shield, respirator or well ventilated area, heavy leather apron and leather gloves. You can't use cloth because the liquid will soak right through them.
- Traditional Hatori Polishing Tips - Bladesmith's Forum BoardSpeaking from experience, you're not going to get a traditional polish with modern abrasives. There's just something about tojiru goop, and fingerstones that does things that nothing else will. My theory is that modern abrasives are too uniform and too hard to break down properly. Also, don't forget to make or buy decent nugui.
- Osmund knife - Show and Tell - Bladesmith's Forum BoardThe backside carvings is based on 204. The blade part of the front side I filled in myself. I've left the color natural. I want to experiment with dyeing recipes on future sheaths. It's made it waterproof using a goop recipe recommended to me (beeswax/boiled lineseed oil/gum turpentine). I happened to already have those ingredients.
- Quench Tank Ideas - Hot Work - Bladesmith's Forum BoardThis is one of the VERY rare instances I'd suggest using a semisolid quenchant like Goddard's Goop (roughly equal parts paraffin wax and bacon grease/Crisco with a bit of ATF thrown in, mixed warm and allowed to set) in a shallow pan long enough for the blade but short enough for the handles to project over the ends.
- Recommendations for minimising decarb - Bladesmith's Forum BoardI have some of that grey goop you paint on before austenising to protect against decarb, I have some lead, some 'Low Salt' ( the low sodium salt mix that you get from the supermarket), and some low temp salt (the real stuff that you can't get easy). What would you suggest as the easiest successful method to get the surface hard?
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