Earlier this week, like any insufferable Brooklynite, I found myself in need of some baby spinach. A little pressed for time, I chose to forgo a run to my normal grocery store for a quick trip to my neighborhood bodega. What I walked out with should have earned me a parade with recycled, locally-sourced, biodegradable ticker tape: Five ounces of delicate greens inside a container that had the word “organic” emblazoned on the packaging no fewer than seven times.