By Eric Kim, The New York Times The stately, russet Norman Rockwell Thanksgiving turkey has one major flaw: It’s too big to taste any good. There’s just no easy way to cook the dark meat of a bird that gargantuan without drying out the white meat. (That’s why many professional chefs spatchcock, deep-fry or, for more control, roast the bird in pieces.) Maybe it’s time to stop striving for that decades-old ideal.