By David Tanis, The New York Times Seasons change. The sun sets early, and the evening temperatures are cool, even if afternoons are sunny. It’s nice to settle into autumn menus. Salad is still an important player, but it may be about that time for sturdier leaves to step up. Chicories, with their slightly bitter flavor, make a pleasant seasonal alternative to tender greens. Long cherished in Italy, they aren’t an uncommon grocery item in the United States these days.