Remember the “Portlandia” sketch where Fred Armisen and Carrie Brownstein ask the most patient server on earth about the provenance of Colin the chicken? (Was he raised locally, organically, happily?) Now there’s a comprehensive guide for diners who want to tick those boxes long before they get to the table. “Truth, Love & Clean Cutlery,” published by New Zealand’s Blackwell & Ruth, is an ambitious project: Four simultaneous guides (covering Australia, United Kingdom, United States and the world), enlisting the assistance of 57 top food writers and restaurant critics from more than 45 countries.