Comment on Tasting stripped down at Hopper Creek, other wineries

The place looks like a boxy warehouse at the end of a long, flower-lined country drive with just the tiniest sign to let us know we’re welcome. The host may blink a bit as we pull open the front door, since it’s often dark inside, what little light there is gets soaked up by the dark wood decor. [...] the boutique property of just 6 acres enjoys a quiet, pastoral setting reflecting Napa’s authentic roots. [...] the limited-production wines are delicious, with proprietor Dieter Tede harvesting less than 24 tons of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot annually, plus purchasing Sonoma County Chardonnay, Zinfandel and Petite Syrah. Pours are generous, and a steal at $15 for seven wines, including an estate Malbec and a white Port, accompanied by macadamia nuts and chocolate. Rock music blares, winery dogs trot by, and folks have been known to detour here just to hang with the gregarious, ZZ Top-bearded tasting room manager, Dan Blach. [...] at this oldest operating winery in Lodi (1934), the tasting room occupies an antique 50,000-gallon California redwood barrel. [...] picture a huge hobbit hut capable of holding 20 people, fancied up with a shiny, polished-wood interior, including a curved wood bar studded with barrel tops. The co-owners, the Maggio family, have farmed in Lodi for five generations, and seemingly like to create labels — their OZV, Moss Roxx, Old Soul, Silk Oak, Lodi Estates, Maggio, Helena Ranch and Oak Ridge brands each have numerous selections, meaning we get to sample a broad array of wines. No, indeed, not when owner Rod Berglund likes to joke that he catches his vineyard gophers, crafts them into fancy French recipes, and pairs them with wine from the blocks whence they were captured. (We think he’s joking.) The wine club is called Joe’s Drinking Buddies, the tasting room is actually the barrel and storage room, large groups shouldn’t even think of trying to squeeze in, and it’s best to wear shoes that can stand getting dusty or muddy. Owners Tim and Kandy Ward purchased the 40-acre estate in 1989 and planted it to red Bordeaux varieties, and now they welcome us into their tiny tasting room that does duty as a barrel room, office and storage space. Complimentary visits include a vineyard trek up the slopes, pruning and picking lessons, and meet and greets with the miniature horses, mini-mule and winery dog. Which is wonderful, because the small wooden cottage oozes charm, looking more like a gardening shack than a tasting room. The $15 tasting fee is refundable with purchase, with sampling through whatever is current vintage for Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Carignane, Syrah and Zinfandel. There’s a shiny, proper Seebass tasting room in Boonville, but we savvy sippers know to go to the home estate in Hopland. Call for an appointment, and often owners Scott Willoughby and Michelle Myrenne Willoughby (founder Brigitte Seebass’ daughter) will be on hand to lead tours of the decidedly rustic, centuries-old setup. Even better, rent the new guesthouse for a stay-over, or plan a visit during Hopland Passport weekend (www.destinationhopland.com) and enjoy complimentary food pairings.