“I smell the ocean,” my friend Kim said as she hiked behind me through a fern-filled forest. “I see the ocean,” I replied, glancing up at blue water that peeked through tree trunks ahead of us. “Oh! I haven’t been looking up,” Kim said. “I’m trying not to trip on these roots.” It was a particularly root-filled trail. Just a minute more of careful walking and we reached the Bold Coast of Cutler.